JEANNE PORTERFIELD

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Why Luxembourg?

by Lisa Chickering & Jeanne Porterfield

Because in today's turbulent world harassed by wars, uncertain economies, crime and pollution, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is free from such problems and is a pinpoint of prosperity, peace, and pristine beauty, offering many attractions and advantages for the traveler.

Centrally situated in the heart of Europe, it is miniscule, covering just 5l miles from north to south and 36 miles at its widest. Surrounded by Belgium, France and Germany, it is one of the three Benelux Countries, along with Belgium and The Netherlands. As well as being strategically located, Luxembourg maintains an atmosphere of social harmony making it the working -place for many European institutions. As co-capital of the European Union (EU), it accommodates many of the Community organizations such as the European Court of Justice and the Secretariat of the European Parliament. Also it is the fastest growing financial center in Europe. Banking is its number one business (at last count there were 215 banks), followed by audio-visual communications (Radio-Tele Luxembourg broadcasts in several languages throughout Europe), and third in importance is the production of steel. For such a small nation, with a population of only 400,000 - a quarter of whom are foreigners from the European Union countries - Luxembourg is mighty in encompassing the business and political affairs of western Europe.

The capital, Luxembourg City, is over l,000 years old. It began with a fortress-castle built on a rocky promontory and was known as the "Gibraltor of The North". Today its unusual setting spreads dramatically along the original fortified cliffs, dipping down to the verdant valley. The older part of the city is situated in the valley , while the more modern area strides across the top of the cliffs. A walk along the ancient ramparts, referred to as "the most beautiful balcony in Europe", provides spectacular views to the Petrusse and Alzette valleys. Here within the rocky cliffs it's possible to explore the casements with their miles of meandering tunnels which in the past, were used in defense of the city. An enjoyable tour of the valley is via a miniature train riding on rubber tires called the Petrusse Express. It winds down steep, narrow pathways to the oldest settlement of the city. The 60-minute trip is accompanied by an informative commentary. For those who prefer to go on foot, there's an interesting tour called the Wenzel Walk. It guides one in l00-minutes through l000 years of Luxembourg's history and culure. Also a Luxembourg Card can be reasonably purchased for a one to three day period allowing free access to 3l tourist attactions (musuems, castles, etc.) plus free transportation by rail and bus. A smart way to see alot and save alot.

Along with its substantial old-world atmosphere, the city exudes a cosmopolitan air, reinforced by the European Union's ultra modern buildings located on the Kirchenberg Plateau. A prominent feature is its numerous bridges (93 of them!), lending an architectural texture as well as an artistic aura. And the main boulevards present a spacious openess that seems to sparkle with tidiness.

Interesting plazas and squares are scattered throughout. The Place de Theatre features an eye-catching life size sculpture of a group of frolicking actors, while in the Place de Clairefontaine, backed by the impressive l7th century Notre Dame Cathedral, there is a graceful statue of Grand Duchess Charlotte. She is greatly venerated by the people, as during World War 2 she guided her tiny country with courage and steadfastness through the dark, difficult days of occupation, defending its independence and national identity. She reigned for 45 years, abdicating in favor of her son, Grand Duke Jean. Today he and his wife, Grand Duchess Josephine-Charlotte (she is the sister of the King of Belgium), are equally admired and together they guarantee continuity for Luxembourg's constitutlional monarchy.

One square not to be overlooked is the Place d'Armes, often referred to as "the drawing room" of the capital. It's filled with a colorful sea of out-door cafes and restaurants flanking both sides of the large tree-lined square. All varieities of food are served, from Big Macs -- yes, Big Macs - to full course gourmet menus, depending upon which of the myriad of eateries is chosen. It's a convivial, compulory stop for everyone.

WHY LUXEMBOURG?

Because when it comes to restaurants and the serious fun business of eating,Luxembourg can not be outdone. Some of the finest food in all of Europe can be savored here, both in Luxembourg City as well as in the outlying towns and villages. In fact Luxembourg has the proud distinction of having l2 Michelin-star restaurants, which, per capita, is more than any other country. Luxembourg reached the pinnacle of culinary achievment when Chef Lea Linster won the coveted "Bocuse d'Or" gastronomy award at Lyon, France. She was the only woman and a first for little Luxembourg to achieve such recognition. Lea has her own establishment, "Restaurant Lea Linster" a short drive outside of the capital in the village of Frisange. Here in an opulent setting, with views to surrounding pastures, she serves an incomparable cuisine.

With hunger assuaged, what about a place to stay? Luxembourg abounds in excellent accommodations in all categories ranging from deluxe hotels to relais to charming country inns. Since some of the European Union's institutions are in Luxembourgh City, many of Europe's diplomats and business leaders frequent the Capital-- consequently there are many fine hotels. The Grand Hotel Cravat, conveniently located in the heart of the city, has been run by the same family for three generations and maintains a yesteryear flavor along with quality standards. The slick 5-star Hotel Le Royal offers every amenity including exercise facilities and a swimming pool. (It is listed in "The Leading Hotels of The World") Also the Intercontinental and Sheraton are just some of the other hostelries.

WHY LUXEMBOURG?

Because Americans don't have to worry about being able to speak the language which is a mouthful-Luxembourgeois! Fortunately almost everyone speaks English, as well as being proficient in French and German. Too, Americians are not just tolerlated, as can be the case in some countries, but are genuinely liked. During World War 2 the then ruling Grand Duchess Charlotte came to the United States to ask President Roosevelt for help in defending them against the Nazi invasion. Today the Luxembourgers are still grateful to their American liberators and have not forgotten that l0,000 Americans died there during the war.

A short distance east of the city, in Hamm, is the American Military Cemetery, where 5,076 Americans are buried. Standing alone, at the head of his troops, a simple cross marks the grave of General George S. Patton, Commander of the US 3rd Army. On the velvet carpet of green grass, each white cross and star-marked grave stands out in memorium to those who gave their lives for freedom.

The countryside is appropriately called "the green heart of Europe", and what an out-standingly scenic countryside it is. The variety of landscapes includes ancient towns, fairy-tale villages, hilltop castles, as well as vineyards stretching down to the Moselle River.

WHY LUXEMBOURG?

Because the country's lilliputian size makes it ideal for touring. Nearly all of it can be seen within a day's drive. Unlike much of the continent, traffic is light on country roads, the price of gas is less than other European countries, and car rentals are the most reasonable in Europe. There are so many places to explore; the hilltop village of Vianden dominated by its imposing 9th century castle is where the illustrious French writer, Victor Hugo, spent his voluntary exile in l87l and where he wrote, "Before long the whole of Europe will visit Vianden, this jewel set in its splendid scenery."; and Echternach, an open-air museum town with its medieval Market Square and impressive Abbey and Basilica, which are one of Christianity's earliest centers; or Diekirch, a town housing the unique Museum of The Battle of The Bulge, which presents a series of startling, realistic life-size dioramas showing Allied and German military forces in battle during World War2.

Throughout the country small hotels, inns and relais flourish. One, in the hamlet of Gaichel is the Hotel Gaichel, a charming old house set in a peaceful park. A member of the prestigious Relais and Chateaux Association and boasting a Michelin-Star restaurant, it's the kind of a place one dreams of as an escape from our stressful environment. Another facet of this mini-country is its spa. The Domaine Thermal in the town of Mondorf-les-Bain has earned the reputation of being one of Europe's finest spas. Not only a health-center but a pleasure-center as well with golf, tennis, horseback riding, swimming, and a casino.

Now about getting to Luxembourg.

Many international airlines fly from the United States to various European cities, with a change-of-planes to Luxembourg. However in March of l999 LUXAIR started non-stop flights from Newark, New Jersey direct into Luxembourg "good things come in small packages" certainly applies here.. In fact the longer one stays in little Luxembourg the larger it becomes. And the question, Why Luxembourg? is readily answered.