Diana C. Gleasner

PUBLISHED IN: Southern Traveler; Diversion; Home and Away; Vacations; New York Daily News; San Francisco Examiner; Baltimore Sun; Boston Herald; Buffalo News; Miami Herald; Arizona Daily Star; Dallas Morning News; Daily Herald; Trailblazer; Denver Post; N.Y. Post; Bergen Record; Spokesman Review; Commercial Appeal; New Hampshire Sunday News.

SPECIALTIES: Florida; Hawaii; SE USA; International; cruises; cuisine.

BOOKS: 29 books including 5 Hawaiian Traveler’s Guides; Touring by Bus at Home and Abroad; RVing America’s Backroads-Florida; Florida Off the Beaten Path, 9th Edition; Charlotte, A Touch of Gold; Lake Norman- Our Inland Sea.

AWARDS: Runner-up, Best Travel Book category of 1989 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Competition; SATW Photo Contest, 1991.

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AWESOME ARIZONA

by Diana C. Gleasner, Washington Post

If you're looking for what just might be the most beautiful spot on earth . . ."X" marks the spot.

For a few brief hours we explored Arizona’s mystical slot canyon known as Canyon X. At high noon this geological cathedral glowed with lambent light. Our companions were mesmerized by the play of light and shadow on the exquisite water-sculpted rock walls. From somewhere deep inside the canyon came the airy sound of a flute, clean and pure in the thin desert air, delicately slicing the silence. We held our breath. Colors swirled around us - every conceivable hue of red and orange - beneath a tiny patch of intense blue sky. Beauty beyond imagining.

Yet, we were warned, slot canyons are not to be trifled with. Carved by eons of churning water, these slender slices in the earth’s crust are as potentially lethal as they are photogenic. From time to time a snake wanders in, but it’s the flash floods that pose the greatest threat. In 1997, eleven hikers perished when, without warning, a wall of water hurtled through the adjoining slot canyon drowning everything in its path. With high regard for the awesome power of nature, we followed our guide down the serpentine sandy path through the canyon.

Along the way, we drank in luminous scenery. Canyon X, with walls soaring 300 to 400 feet high, is a masterpiece many millions of years in the making. Fierce floods, violent windstorms and relentless erosion have etched graceful flowing patterns into the rock.

Technically, Canyon X is the upper portion of Antelope , the best known and most heavily visited of the slot canyons. Antelope is also beautiful, but the crush of visitors detracts from the reverent atmosphere we encountered in Canyon X . Accessible only to small groups through only one tour company (Overland Canyon Tours), Canyon X is a 15-mile drive from Page, Arizona, much of it on dirt roads, through Navajo land. A 15-minute scramble down a steep and rugged trail follows the hour-long, one-way drive. Small price to view one of Earth’s most beautiful spots.

If Canyon X is a prime example of Canyon Country on a human scale, the Grand Canyon pulls out all the stops to offer spectacular scenery on a super scale. One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, the Grand Canyon is an enormous chasm carved over millennia by the Colorado River. How enormous? A mile deep, 18 miles wide and 277 miles long.

We chose to explore the South Rim of the Canyon, taking advantage of hiking trails and free shuttle buses. While glorious vistas of changing light and color gripped our attention, we were soon drawn by the haunting sound of a single drum. A trio of Native Americans - a young girl and her grandparents - were performing a ceremonial dance near the canyon’s rim. After the dance, the grandfather explained how tribal beliefs are transmitted to each generation through dances, songs and stories. Some of their dances told of the eagle’s courage, others of their deep respect for this land - their home since time immemorial.

After a long and satisfying day exploring the South Rim, we boarded the Grand Canyon Railway bound for Williams, the gateway to the Grand Canyon. The depot, conveniently located in the heart of the park’s historic district near the El Tovar Hotel, is a short 200-yard stroll from the South Rim.

Ah, the romance of the rails. We looked forward to a relaxing ride to Williams aboard vintage railway cars powered by a restored historic steam engine. Covering 65 miles of classic Old West territory, our legendary "iron horse" was to lead us across high desert plains and through parts of the world’s largest ponderosa pine forest.

We were being entertained by a wandering musician when a glance out the window dispelled all thoughts of relaxation. Masked men on horseback galloped toward the train at top speed, brandishing their guns in the air. Before we knew it, we were in the midst of an old fashioned train robbery. Fortunately, a marshal appeared on the scene just in the nick of time. Lucky for us, it was all part of the fun.

God may have created the Grand Canyon, but He lives in Sedona. At least, that’s what they say in Sedona. If that’s true, He has an easy commute. Sedona is just two hours south of the Grand Canyon.

You don’t have to get out of town to appreciate its dramatic scenery. Perhaps the best view of the remarkable landscape is from the airport overlook. Protected on all sides by vast national and state forest lands, this unique enclave is endowed with extraordinary natural beauty. Heroic crimson buttes rise in every direction. Massive red rock outcroppings and lush green canyons have transformed the entire community of Sedona into a sprawling gallery without walls.

No wonder bridal magazines consistently place Sendona among the top ten romantic destinations in the country. And what better setting for a recent episode of ABC’s hit television series, "The Bachelorette," than beneath the massive rocks that frame Sedona? Should anyone need further testimony, in 2003, USA WEEKEND selected Sedona as the No. 1 Most Beautiful Place in America.
Our appetites whetted for a closer look, we signed up with "A Day in the West" for a jeep tour of Sedona’s red rock country. Our trusty vehicle tackled some wild challenges as we lurched from side to side, scaled impossible inclines and rumbled along a rocky trail that was very much a work in progress. Our knowledgeable guide, who covered everything from geological history and ancient inhabitants to flora and fauna, collected plant samples along the way for us to sniff or taste.

This rugged country offered a surprise at every turn. Not only is this community an oasis of beauty and culture, it is also a Mecca for outdoor lovers, artists, photographers, spiritualists, movie makers and visitors.

Street names recall various movies that have been filmed here: Broken Arrow, Copper Canyon, Fabulous Texas, Gun Fury, Johnny Guitar, Last Wagon and Pony Soldier - to name a few.

Sedona’s heritage as a spiritual center goes back hundreds of years. Native Americans perform sacred ceremonies here just as they did in ancient times, and New Age spiritualists are drawn to Sedona’s celebrated vortexes - mystical sources of the earth’s energy. According to metaphysical practitioners, the three known kinds of "hot spots" can be found in Sedona. These vortexes attract clairvoyants, therapists and healers, as well as anyone seeking personal growth and spiritual renewal.

For those in need of a jolt of retail therapy, Sedona offers a variety of venues. Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village, a collection of Spanish-style buildings exuding old world charm, is popular with visitors as are prestigious art galleries and high-end shops scattered about town.

Traveling south on the Highway 89-loop drive from Sedona to Prescott, we soon understood why Fodor’s named this one of America’s most scenic drives. Our destination turned out to be another flourishing community strongly committed to the arts. Cited as one of the top 100 art towns in the nation, Prescott supports a vibrant gallery scene featuring local, regional and national artists.

Prescott also cares deeply about its historic preservation. More than 600 of its buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places making this community one of Arizona’s best preserved towns. From the Elk’s Opera House and historic Hassayampa Inn to the first Territorial Governor’s Mansion, Prescott’s architectural heritage is on display. Lovingly restored Victorian homes along tree-shaded Mt. Vernon Street, affectionately known as the Painted Ladies, are worth a tour in themselves.
Starting out as a mining camp populated by a ragtag group of gold prospectors, Prescott’s origins were wild and wooly. In those early days, the action - and there was plenty - centered on Whiskey Row where more than 26 saloons lured miners to part with their gold in one way or another. Several historic restaurants and bars, including Jersey Lilly’s Saloon and The Palace, are still popular gathering places.

The Palace, Arizona’s oldest restaurant and saloon, opened for business in 1877. Many a rough frontiersman, including Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday, bellied up to this bar, but it functioned as far more than a place to throw back a slug of bourbon. Mineral claims were bought and sold here, miners sought solace from women of questionable virtue, and this was a fine place to drown their sorrows should their claims prove worthless.

Where there were larger-than-life men, there was also a colorful cast of frontier women. Little Egypt danced at The Palace, and Doc Holliday’s girlfriend, Big Nose Kate, who died in 1940 at the age of 90, is buried in Prescott.

In 1900 a fire destroyed much of Prescott. Patrons, upset at the specter of losing their beloved watering hole, hauled the Palace’s ornately carved (and very heavy) bar across the street where they resumed drinking while Prescott burned. At least that’s how the story goes.

Today the Palace, which has been restored to its former splendor, offers food as well as drink. The varied menu ranges from a Wrangler’s reuben and Cowboy catfish to Doc’s T-Bone. Not to worry, the original bar is still there. Come sundown, the place throbs with live music as serious cowboys sporting boots and 10 gallon hats pick a pretty lady to do the two-step.

The scene is reminiscent, in some ways, of those early frontier days. Outside, cars have replaced horses, but men still try to impress young women with their horsepower as they cruise tree-lined Courthouse Square. These are authentic characters right out of the Wild West. It is not surprising to learn that Prescott is in the heart of rodeo country. In fact, the World’s Oldest Rodeo is held here every year during the July 4th holiday.

The place to learn about the rough and tumble days when Prescott served as Arizona’s territorial capital (1863-1867 and 1877-1889) is Sharlot Hall Museum. The Museum’s three-acre campus contains the first territorial governor’s mansion as well as other historical buildings, attractive gardens and a myriad of fascinating displays.

Here Prescott’s past comes alive with a focus on the contributions of its Native Americans, adventurers, entrepreneurs, soldiers and miners. Throughout the year a variety of festivals, outdoor theater performances and living history events take place on these grounds. Founded by historian and poet Sharlot M. Hall in 1928, this is the largest museum in the central territory of Arizona and surely one of the best.

More western heritage is on tap at the Phippen Art Museum. This collection of fine art, paintings, sketches and bronzes celebrates Western heritage in a gallery resembling a rustic ranch house. The museum honors George Phippen, the highly respected Western artist who founded Cowboy Artists of Americas. The museum sponsors an annual Memorial Day Weekend Western Art Show & Sale, one of the area’s most popular events.

The Smoki Museum, housed in a replica of a Hopi Pueblo constructed in 1935 of native stone and wood, is dedicated to Native Americans. The outstanding collection of crafts, some as old as 7,000 years, includes baskets, pottery, weaving and artifacts from regional tribes.

While the arts and architecture are cherished aspects of Prescott’s identity, its setting is a triumph of natural beauty. Surrounded by the Bradshaw Mountains and a million acres of ponderosa pines, this mile-high city offers magnificent opportunities for outdoor recreation within a few minutes of town. Five pristine lakes invite kayaking, canoeing and fishing, and golfers have their choice of five well-tended courses.

Four-hundred-and-fifty miles of multi-use trails in Prescott National Forest provide unlimited opportunities for hiking, biking and horseback riding. Rock climbers seeking expansive views will discover them in Chino Valley, on Granite Mountain and throughout the rock formations of the Granite Dells.

Treasure hunters take note. In the 1800s, a small group of prospectors was attacked as they headed for Prescott with canvas bags stuffed with gold nuggets and gold dust. In great haste they buried their riches just north of town in the Granite Dells.
Only one prospector survived the attack. Though he returned to the Dells several times, he never found the gold. Also, the strong boxes of at least two stagecoach robberies are out there awaiting discovery. Where to look? Somewhere on the slopes of Granite Mountain.

There may be gold in the surrounding hillsides, but visitors will find the real riches of Arizona in its grand and glorious landscapes and intimate scenes - scenes that linger in the mind and tug at the heart.
The prettiest place on Earth? As far as we’re concerned, X marks the spot.