Randa Bishop

COOX CANCUN

by Randa Bishop, Diamond Resorts

Cerulean blue Caribbean waters gently caress the pristine, white powdery sands of Isla Cancun – the 22-mile strip of land with high-rise, luxury hotels that attracts a huge number of tourists to its shores. Vacationers splash happily in beachfront pools, dunk their toes in the enticing Caribbean, soak up the sun’s rays, jet-ski on jungle lagoons, swim with dolphins, and even take bird-watching treks in a Biosphere Reserve. Others explore Yucatan Pennisula archeological sites, and the rich history of the Mayan civilization, that left their indelible mark buried in the surrounding emerald jungle.

“Coox,” said Roger, our driver. Repeating it more slowly, “Coox (coo-sh), it’s means, Let’s Go,” he said, introducing us to Yukatek, the indigenous language still in use. We set off to Chichen Itzá –a great pre-hispanic city.

During the two-hour drive we learned about the ancient Maya; whose descendants still live in the dense surrounding jungle. They practice “slash-and-burn” agriculture, growing corn, beans, chile, avocado, and squash, as did their ancestors. Sample these staples in downtown Cancun, at Labná Restaurant. Yucatecan specialties include, lime soup, suckling pig with guacamole, and papadzules (tortillas stuffed with boiled egg and pumpkin seed sauce).

The unique Yucatan landscape retains no surface water. Rain seeps through limestone fissures, forming underwater rivers. Enormous sinkholes called cenotes are plentiful, and the Maya, who considered them a sacred passage to the underworld, built great cities near these subterranean rivers.

Chichen Itzá, “mouth of the Itzá well,.” is an ancient masterpiece,. Over several centuries, it was built with a variety of influences. The cosmopolitan society developed trade and cultural exchange, and this famous ceremonial city displays Mayan expertise in science, mathematics, and hieroglyphic writing.

Starting around 600 BC, the decorative Puuc architectural style is most evident in La Iglesia (the Church). Its facade has elaborate, even whimsical, carved-stone mythological figures, such as the hooked-nose rain god, Chaac, with fanged teeth, and a serpent overhead.

El Caracol (the Observatory), gives testament to early, skilled astronomers, who started sky-watching as early as 3113BC. They developed a sophisticated calendar. based on the number 20. Roger pointed out, “They had no telescope, no compass! They used their fingers and toes to count! Each of its eight windows has a view of 45º – totalling 360º.”

Grand temples, influenced by Toltecs, were built several centuries later. The symmetric 4-sided step-pyramid, El Castillo (the Castle), Temple of Kukulcan (the Mayan name for Toltec’s Quetzalcoatl, a plumed serpent), dominates a vast plaza. Each side has 91 steps, plus the top platform, totaling 365, representing the days in a year. A phenomenon occurs on the days of Spring Equinox and the Autumn Solstice, when a combination of shadows and sunlight give the illusion of a serpent’s body slithering down the temple.

A statue of Chac Mool sits atop the Temple of Warriors, as a messenger of god for offerings. Human sacrifice, occured at Chichen Itzá under the rule of the Itzaes. Stone carvings at the Grand Ball Court depict a bloody demise for the winner Be sure to explore acoustics and echos around the Castle and Ball Court.

A relaxing, refreshing way to finish a day roaming through the ruins, is to take a dip in the Sacred Blue Cenote in nearby Ik-Kil park. The 200-foot wide, cenote appears perfectly round, and the crystal clear blue water is 85 feet below the earth’s surface.

Several other ancient cities are within striking distance of Cancun. The ruins of Cobá, “Water stirred by wind,” are much older - 600-900 AD - Little has been restored, which gives this vast city its charm.. An amusing and comfortable way to see the main areas is to hire a human powered tricycle. The Nohohc Mul pyramid is the tallest in the Yucatan Visitors are still permitted to climb its steep steps, for a splendid jungle view.

Take a moment to sit quietly under the thick forest canopy of large Ceiba trees, and contemplate how this great city functioned, when 100,000 people lived here.

On the way back to Cancun, stop at Tulum, “place of the dawning.” The small fortified city, was built between 1100-1500 AD. El Castillo is perched on a cliff, adjacent to the Caribbean. It functioned as a navigational aid for canoes, marking a natural break in the offshore reef. The Temple of Frescoes, has rain god, Chaac reliefs on its corners, and ancient red pigment remnants on painted stucco.

Mayans are easy to meet in Cancun. Besides speaking English and Spanish, they are proud of their own Yukatek language. If a local Mayan says, “Béxabel (How are you?)” Your answer is easy, “Mà alo (Good!).”